Phu Quoc is part of an archipelago of 105 islands in the Gulf of Thailand, of which 13 are in close proximity to its shores. A land area of 1,320km makes it Vietnam’s largest island. It has some of the best beaches in Vietnam, a large forest area, and coral around the small islands to the south. Although comparatively underdeveloped, the island is becoming a tourist attraction.

Phu Quoc Nature Reserve
The north-east corner of the island is hilly and covered in dense forest. It was originally designated as a nature reserve in 1993. Although it was upgraded to National Park status in 2001 and extended to cover most of the island, little is known about its bio-diversity. The islands and their surrounding marine areas are currently being considered for ‘biosphere’ listing by UNESCO.

Attractions
Phu Quoc's beaches are by far the main reason for the growing interest in Phu Quoc as a major tourist destination. They are considered the best in Vietnam – experienced travellers have described some of them as the best they have ever seen. Fringed by coconut palms, the sands often stretch as far as the eye can see with hardly a person in sight.

The aptly named Bai Kem (Ice Cream Beach) is one of the best. A stretch of dazzling-white soft coral sand tucked away in a wide cove, it has been compared with the Seychelles.

The main town, Duong Dong, is half-way up the island on the western side. It’s a pleasant, but unremarkable small seaport with several ‘nuoc mam’ (fish sauce) factories and Dinh Cau, a temple devoted to the Whale God. The latter contains skeletons of whales and other large sea mammals used by devotees of the mysterious whale cult. Duong Dong’s fresh seafood is delicious. The local market is lively, and well worth a visit.

An Tho, a fishing town at the point of the teardrop, is bigger, noisier and more crowded than Duong Dong but decidedly un-photogenic. It’s not worth adding to your itinerary unless you're keen on the smell of rotting fish.

Serious trekking is curtailed by the extensive military restricted areas, but long hikes along the dirt tracks and paths through the pepper and cashew plantations are straightforward.

More glamorous, but less well-known, are Phu Quoc's pearls. Once collected from the sea, local pearl farms now produce the iridescent gems. A visit is fascinating, and you can purchase the products for far less than they would cost overseas.

Despite a heavy reliance upon ‘dynamite fishing’ by local fishermen, some of the coral reef has survived, mostly around the islets at the south of the island. Boats for snorkelling can be hired in An Thoi.

A five star PADI diving centre has recently opened on Phu Quoc. Turtle Island off the north-west is reputed to be one of the best dive sites in Vietnam.

On the downside!
The tourism infrastructure on Phu Quoc is still basic compared to other resort areas in the country (though this can be a big plus if you don't mind roughing it!). There is only one tarred road. The rest are dirt tracks, so travelling around involves using local ‘xe-om’ (motorbike taxis) or hiring a motor bike.

There are several hotels, but they are nearly all local standard. The recently built three-star Saigon Phu Quoc, is better, but has some way to go to match its counterparts on Mui Ne beach and elsewhere. Cafes and restaurants are plentiful, but international dishes are virtually non-existent.

Nevertheless, its unspoilt beaches, laid-back atmosphere and lack of tourists makes it an excellent ‘get away from it all’ holiday for travellers or honeymooners who can survive without the creature comforts of international standard resorts.