| Hanoi’s
Pagodas and Temples
Tran
Quoc Pagoda
The original pagoda was built in the 6th century and is considered
the oldest in Vietnam. It was founded on the bank of the Red
River by King Ly Nam De who named it Khai Quoc (National Founder).
Much later, it was moved to its present site beside Hanoi’s
Ho Tay (West) Lake during the reign of King Le Kinh Tong (1600-1618)
and renamed Tran Quoc (National Defence). The current building
is the result of major renovations in 1815, but one of its
effigies dates back to the early 17th century.
In
the garden, there is a Pipal Tree (ficus religiosa, but known
throughout history as the Bodhi tree) reputedly grown from
a cutting of the original tree where Buddha sat and gained
enlightenment.
Hoe
Nhai Pagoda
This pagoda was founded in 1020 by a Chinese Buddhist monk
named Trong Dien. The ruling monarch at that time had persecuted
Buddhist monks. Dien described the Buddhist philosophy for
him, and he relented.
Inside,
a statue of Dien shows him sitting on the Kings back, symbolising
the understanding between them. The interior
framework of the building and the altars are all fashioned
in hardwood and are very attractive.
One
Pillar Pagoda.
Close to what is now the Ho Chi Minh Museum, the One Pillar
(or One Tree) Pagoda overlooks a small pond. It was built
by Emperor Ly Thai Tong after a dream in which the Goddess
of Mercy handed him a male child on a lotus flower. He created
the small wooden pagoda to resemble a lotus blossom to commemorate
the birth of his long-awaited heir.
Unfortunately,
the original was destroyed during the war with the French.
The present building is a replica erected the year after the
colonists were finally expelled in 1954.
Lien
Phai Pagoda
This pastel coloured multi-tiered pagoda stands in a pleasant
garden hidden in a labyrinth of alleys leading off Bach Mai
Street just below the city centre to the south. It is set
amongst pleasant and tranquil gardens next to the main building
of worship. The pagoda was founded by one of the Nguyen Lords
in the early 18th century who picked up a rock resembling
a lotus root in his back garden. Considering this a sign from
Buddha, he converted his palace into the pagoda.
A
visit also provides an opportunity to venture into the maze
of tiny alleys off the main roads where the majority of Hanoi’s
residents live, and where foreigners are a great rarity.
Quan
Thanh Pagoda
This impressive pagoda was founded during the reign of King
Ly Thai To (1010-1028), and is located beside Truc Bach Lake.
It is ornately decorated and stands before a pleasant courtyard
shaded by banyan trees. Inside, there is an imposing four-ton
bronze statue of the God of the North cast in 1677, together
with his attendant spirits, a snake and a tortoise – clearly
a Taoist symbol.
Tay
Ho Pagoda
Named after the lake it sits beside, the pagoda occupies a
superb position on a tongue of land projecting into the water.
It is dedicated to Thanh Mau, the Mother Goddess, who appeared
on the lake as a pretty girl, smiling and reciting poetry
to a fisherman, then vanished.
It
is one of Hanoi's most popular pagodas, attracting many worshippers
on the first and 15th of each lunar month. It’s also a delightful
place to visit, particularly as part of a trip around the
lake by boat – it has its own landing stage.
Lang
Pagoda
Located in Hanoi’s suburbs, the Lang Pagoda provides an opportunity
to see a semi-rural area, yet another of Hanoi’s many faces.
It was built during the reign of Emperor Ly Than Tong (1128-1138).
Entry is via an ancient concrete and wooden gateway flanked
by stone elephants. The courtyard encloses an octagonal pavilion.
For visitors, it offers a peaceful setting where local students
like to read and paint, and old people enjoy relaxing in the
shade of the trees.
Chem
Temple
Chem Temple is in Thuy Phuong village near the southern bank
of the Thang Long Bridge. The temple is dedicated to Ly Than,
who was sent to assist the first emperor of the Chi'in Dynasty
in China and married his daughter during the second century
BC. It is believed that the Chem Temple was built around the
7th or 8th century on the site of Ly Than's residence. The
current temple today was erected in the 19th century.
The
temple contains two gilded wooden statues of Ly Than and his
wife sculpted in 1888. It’s a relaxing place, with excellent
views of the Red River
Phu
Dong Temple
Phu Dong Temple is in Gia Lam District, once the home of a
tenth-century legendary hero called Thanh Giong. It is located
in a peaceful rural area across the Red River to the east
of Hanoi city centre. The site actually consists of two temples.
The
Dong Temple is large and impressive. According to local legend,
it was built by King Ly Thai immediately after the king moved
to Thang Long in 1010. It now has two prayer halls, a rear
palace and, unusually, a theatre built on the front pond for
water puppet shows, all of which were constructed in 19th
century.
The
Mau Temple was originally built in 1693 on the outer dyke
and is dedicated to Thanh Dong's mother. Nearby is an old
garden once owned by Thanh Dong's mother. It contains a stele
bearing a legend. Apparently, a giant trampled upon the vegetable
patch and left a footprint. The next day, Dong's mother placed
her foot in the giant print, became pregnant and gave birth to Thanh Dong.
Dong
Nhan Temple
Located in central Hanoi, this temple pays homage to the Trung
sisters, Trung Trac and Trung Nhi, Vietnamese heroines who
led a rebellion to drive out the Han invaders in AD 40.
The
Dong Nhan Temple was originally built on the Red River bank
in the 12th century, but the bank collapsed in 1819 and the
temple was moved to its current location. A local legend tells
that one night in early February, two statues were discovered
floating in the Red River in 1142 and were brought ashore
by villagers. King Ly Anh Tong was told and ordered a temple
dedicated to the statues to be built on the spot.
The
two statues stand at the rear of the temple and wear hibiscus
hats with their hands rising up to their faces attended by
twelve statues of female generals on each side.
Thu
Le Temple (Kneeling Elephant Temple)
The temple derives its name from two kneeling elephants guarding
the gate.
Located
in Hanoi’s Thu Le botanical garden, this temple was built
in the Ly Thai Tong Dynasty (1028-54) near West Lake, and
was dedicated to Linh Lang, son of King Ly Thai Tong.
According
to legend, the King’s wife was confronted by a dragon, and
became pregnant. When the child was born, he had dragon scales
and lights twinkling like pearls on his chest. As an adult,
he led the army to expel invaders. The grateful king wanted
to abdicate in his favour, but Linh Lang refused. He was transformed
into a black dragon entangled around a stone slab and disappeared
into West Lake. The king ordered a temple to be built on the
site.
The
Thu Le Temple still contains two bronze statues and a large
concave stone slab. It’s in an attractive wooded landscape
beside a pond, a calm and harmonious ambiance conducive to
contemplation.
Quan
Su Pagoda
The Quan Su is Hanoi’s largest and most popular pagoda. It
was first erected on land in An Tap village close to the southern
gate of Thang Long (the old name for Hanoi).
Originally a small Buddhist pagoda located near the 15th century
Quan Su house used to receive foreign envoys and ambassadors,
the pagoda eventually became the headquarters of the Tonkin
Buddhist Association. Over the years, the pagoda has been
restored and expanded many times.
Bach
Ma (White Horse) Temple in the Old Quarter
According to legend, in the ninth century, King Ly Thai To
was struggling to build the Hanoi Citadel, but the walls kept
collapsing because of the marshy sub-soil. Bach Ma (White
Horse), who was the spirit of Thang Long, appeared in the
guise of a builder and told the King how to create foundations
that would support the masonry. The King was grateful, and
ordered the building of a pagoda dedicated to Bach Ma. A statue
of the horse stands beside the altar.
The
current structure was built in the 18th century, and is typical
of Hanoi’s pagodas. It’s hidden away in the Old Quarter, and
blends in well with its bustling streets. There is even a
shop built into the walls to the left of the entrance. |